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Feb. 8th, 2017 07:22 am
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Princess dress full lengthish 🙂


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Date: 2017-02-09 01:53 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jenlemus.livejournal.com
What pattern did you use? My crazy cray ruffle gown is is an 1876 Princess gown, very unusual for evening wear at that point. I used a TV bodice pattern and extended it down. But I knew I couldn't use any waist seams, and needed a 6 piece back.

Date: 2017-02-09 07:38 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] pinkdiamond.livejournal.com
I don't use patterns :) I basically hoard draping and drafting books from every era to understand the aesthetic and engineering properties :)

So this was draped on my stand that I padded to the idealised shape. I had Patterns of Fashion out as well as my Toissot book- as this is basically the underdress for a Tissot inspired day dress.

Oh no, Wordpress tag system* is a bit borked. I'll need to go through and put all the books in a category. I had linked to many through my blog. I think tags imported over here. Okay and scheduled mainenance now.

They aren't that rare, certainly more popular than before or after because of the tubular shape. I think they just stand out more in day dress form because of the extra focus on length to the shoulder and then the long sleeves.
https://nz.pinterest.com/pin/449797081515159657/
https://nz.pinterest.com/pin/449797081515134897/
Two patterns which are pretty much in line with the pattern books and dressmaker articles in other publications.
https://nz.pinterest.com/pin/550987335643340210/
This is a bit closer to what I wound up with.

https://nz.pinterest.com/pin/524387950340365342/
With a little of this.
https://nz.pinterest.com/pin/524387950340393703/
This is just annoying, but kind of follows the same idea: fairly straight front with pleats at the side back seams where appropriate (so further down for natural form).
https://nz.pinterest.com/pin/13229392631837967/
Totally not at all a scan from Cut of Women's Clothes.. but again, useful for getting into the head of dressmakers of the time with pinching fabric and leaving pleats in the seams.
https://nz.pinterest.com/pin/449797081517047459/
And again, the basic principles of basically darting the front and seaming the back.

I still need to go through all of Der Bazar for the dress patterns. Just grabbed a few corset patterns so far.

Well I say patterns... more like very idealised lone art. Like on the back of modern patterns.

Woot, while looking for these I found what may be the start of my missy coat!

And this:
https://nz.pinterest.com/pin/85427724155056895/ which I'm interested in learning more about as it looks really good though it says it's for theatre. It does use an early 20thC patern block as the base though.

*only shows a tag cloud of recent tags, and the theme I like doesn't seem to show the tags on any given page...

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