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ย 


My Mr Boo tribute fits in really nicely. He will need to be unpicked to put the embroidered body in place but I really wanted to test the shapes and embossing depth and get used to it first ๐Ÿ™‚ he will have a little fat belly. He’ll have his ears and nose partly etched so his heart nose is really


obvious.



But the rest of the leaves and pearls have been stitched down too ๐Ÿ™‚



The front piece will need leaves to have holes stamped out of the end. So not doing that past 9pm as it is now though!

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Yeah, well I tried by machine. It was actually much harder and the result was just not okay. I either had really obvious stitches or had to break out my craft blade to unpick very carefully.


The light heat n bond is kind of perfect though. It is too light to work on its own but works really well to stabilise the brocade. It both retains the curve I managed to pressed it into as well as stick to the silk. But the fabric is much too heavy, so it absorbs the stuff!



Also if anyone has been watching my instagram they’ll have seen the progress of the centrepiece of my stickelchen. My Boo, he is made from embossed copper with silver leaf so is quite fragile. I was going to make his body from pearls but I think I may want to preserve the feeling of softness by either embroidery or more embossing. I have silver thread but nothing to couch.



And yes, I still need to tidy the couched braid as it is a bit wobbly from stretching.


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Stickelchen is now tidy enough to line and to add more leaves and sequins ๐Ÿ™‚



The back is slightly longer than the original I made so there is a bit of a gap. Currently binding the individual cords in gold thread. It is taking a few goes as my needles keep bending.



Brocade trim progress:


The double border after the dye was removed, being cut into usable strips.



Then one of those strips being pressed for use. Hopefully enough to do what I want. There may have to be creative use of scraps if not!



The bodice! So proud. I’m using a few actual tailoring methods here ๐Ÿ™‚ Heavy thread to baste the layers and to ease the armscye. Yes. the thread is slightly tight which draws the fabric closer into the shoulder and arm. You can seen the deep clipping used to fit the armhole too, it was really distorting the fit so it had to be done sooner rather than later.



What’s this? Yes, stay tape around the neckline (including deep front opening. I wanted a round neck but all those images of Anne show her nckline really scooting right up to form an inverted V at the front so it makes most sense to make a V in the back.


But a V is on the diagonal so stretches out. The tape is to prevent that.



Is it telling that I really want to make the matching belt? Like really really really want to. I feel it’s going to tie the whole ensemble together well ๐Ÿ™‚

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Okay, this has taken forever and I was trying to get this ready for.. tomorrow. AHAHAHAHAHHAAH!!!


But I decided to not take any shortcuts (except to stabilise layers before hand working.)


So this meant stretching the velvet and pearls over the base. Loose over handing of the back, then the front with tinier over handing.



Okay it’s not Anne’sย because I do like a little room for interpretation and originality.


And this work? Well I had to carefully remove it all as a few branches were just off enough that I was not happy.


Rare back view as it doesn’t show that well on the form. Well it does but it doesn’t sit in the right place ๐Ÿ™‚



And on top of the saree I picked up just tonight. It is vintage style and is very similar in hand to the saree I partially gave away a while back. This should decolour but it will be a little tougher than the recent saree.



There are a few larger gaps than intended in the stickelchen so there will be tidying tomorrow as well as tiny twigs like seen almost in the centre of the image below.



With all this, and with the news about the new schnittbuch it’s reinvigorated my desire to get The Frazzled Frauย (boards under my name- all right at the top ๐Ÿ™‚ ) back up and running. If there are pins from trusted sources I repin, if I have tracked down through image searches I pin anew and smile when it turns out others have pinned from the source too ๐Ÿ™‚


Also, I have a single xml copy of my livejournal to go through- lj archive would be so perfect if it had editing capabilities. But ah well currently using a mix of apps that are better than notepad but not as flash as I’d really like. But that’s xml documents for you. But essentially finding all the for public posts and making them public again ๐Ÿ™‚ I’ve been blogging since 2001 so it’s an old habit and it’s not always been easy finding the balance ๐Ÿ™‚

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I woke early and put Pride and Prejudice on and sewed. And sewed.


Backtracking a few days: My support bodice has been theorised and made. Basically I went this area has both Dutch and German influences and I really don’t want another sidelacing support so what if…?”



The shoulder is cut separately like in Alcega and other tailors. Because like me those tailors said “man this wastes fabric also I want a stable neckline all on the grain thankyouverymuch.”


I have done thisย since.. well the Kampfrau at least,ย but ย in all the site moves this has been lost. So, that’s the two-fold benefit of cutting shoulders separately. Oh, but the shoulders are a single layer like the Effigy stays because it really is super comfy!


Then I wanted to try to use the overhanded body seams. This was nervewracking! I know the curvy S front seam means that’s where fitting happens, but it is very apparent from extant items that the side back was where the final fitting happens. This is clear when you look at the even seam allowances at the front but uneven allowances at the side back. That can only happen if the fronts were fitted and made up and the side backs done last.


I have managed that through very bad initial fitting stages though…



So here is my cunning method of transferring a seam and also my curvy S front seam.ย The entire bodice (aside from sloping neckline) is straight from a tailor’s book seen in Kohler’s History of Costume that looked like it was made up but is definitely from an extant manual.


I thought it was in Drei Schnittbucher (which really I hope everyone has) but I think was in another article. I will find it. Meanwhile the Kohler diagrams:



So finally I used twill tape to stabilise where I’ll be poking lacing holes, and bound the entire piece by hand.




Lots of falling in love with all the characters from P&P here and also lots of life lessons between my first viewing and latest!


So that wasn’t enough. I also removed the dye from the brocade for the hem of the gown proper and started putting the stickelchen together properly.


I like making hats, I love millinery. So of course am doing this as complicated as possible. But it’s at least plausible and mimics the structure I know was used for rigid headgear at this time. Oh trust me that documentation is coming but it’s been a slog to reverse image search as my bookmarks are out of control! And because it’s been over a decade since this project started there are broken links to hunt for archival forms ๐Ÿ˜‰



The twill tape is to stabilise the edges.And the front shell is in place and the jeweled band is in progress. Just second guessing a few decisions for that one. I just don’t have the finding I know I want to use. The pretty ones clearly have glued stones and the “aged” gold is just not what you want for period items (you didn’t pretend the bling was dirty or not real, you wanted the bling!.)

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Love. So in love. My hair has been lost and regained between first making and wearing to now, so I have to do something different with my haube. Right now the back of the one I wear under my pearled Braunchweig haube pushes the back of the stickelsche out of place. This style depends heavily on having braids just so and haube just so. But doesn’t really require much fussing once on. It’s just getting familiar with your hair and fabric properties ๐Ÿ™‚


stickelchen

Jan. 5th, 2017 05:31 am
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I am insanely happy with how the braid looks. Yep, it is laid over pearls rather than all being flat as that is the dimensionality that is seen in all forms of pearl work from this region. The tapering is right as well, I just used pearls that were oversized originally and while I know this I want to keep a lot of my original work as possible.


But look! There may even be enough leaves to really pill in the back, but that may be part of the work that will go into joining the sides together ๐Ÿ™‚



Today also saw the skirt linings cut for two gowns. Yep. Pink. Pink is returning to the wardrobe ๐Ÿ™‚



Oh hey, also went on a saree buying spree! This one was a spur of the moment buy when I picked up the ones intended for the cleves hem ๐Ÿ™‚



The gold tone trim it what I grabbed these for and totally didn’t realise there was potential for the coloured embroidery….. now there are Thoughts(tm).



This one was riskier. not sure if it’s easy to spot but those repeats can be cut in half to mimic the trim of the Moulin Rouge wedding gown. It’s a start. Also once in hand it does look like thr ground of the repeats is cotton so it should decolour really nicely!


I hope!


But there is a lot of unpicking over the next few days!

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