pinkdiamond: (Default)

I have been using @Autodesk @AutodeskReMake for a while. Just the free version while I practice how to photograph my models. I think I finally cracked it, and it’s almost certainly going to offer great results once I pay for the subscription and can send 250 photos not just 50 😉


 


So my very first test.


I can’t find my photos but basically I started with the head cast a little way from my far workroom corner and took photos with it stationary.


 


Looking at the model put out through different angles:



So here you can see the rest of the room was partially captured but the sculpt is well defined.



Isolating the sculpt and it’s even captured all the clay shavings! Just a few lumps in the horns but otherwise I’m impressed.


However I was not really able to get close enough in all angles around my sculpt to get decent shots of the underside of the horns.


 


So I watched a few more tutorials and a few suggested rotating the object rather than standing up and lying down to get angles otherwise difficult.



This was in the same place as before. The doorhandle looks mildly terrifying…



Still on the same stand and this time against a wall in better light. Well I have bricks!



So I painted the horns pink! And put them on a tall stand to really isolate them. Again the horns disappear and there is a great view of the wall.


 


Okay so obviously this sculpt needs to be static not moved around. I realised the back deck is often protected from harsh sunlight but offers good light bouncing from many surfaces. So to the deck with my pink horns on a spike and finally got this:


  


Lots of background but the horns are easy to isolate.



So finally some of the ridge detail is captured! But still quite lumpy.


 


Each model used the 50 photo limit. I do think with 250 photos I’ll be able to get all the detail needed.


 


So for a sculpt like this, of complexity of line:


Do make sure the model is static. Do not rotate it for different angles, move yourself around instead.


Get it at a height where you can get images from underneath as well as on top and all around (for me this is about knee to waist high)


Get some photos with the full area around you as that will help isolate the model and put it in context.


Get some mid distance images.


 


Once those are done you can get in close. I have to reset where my camera focuses because I got a few where the point was on the deck.


 


But yes. I’m going to set up a few sculpts outside so I can digitise a good number of them. Shae for one, old Maley horns for another. And I’ll melt some clay and pour into some other molds to capture them as well 🙂 I think with one month Subscription I can get a reasonable number captured. Heck I will even capture my Togruta horns for in case I have to move and my molds have to go bye bye. I may have someone who could take them on but I’m not 100% sure.


 





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pinkdiamond: (Default)

http://www.barnesnz.co.nz/


Henderson Auckland!!!


!!!!!!! I can’t really justify 27kg of the stuff but they have the S foam 130 flex!


http://www.barnesnz.co.nz/polyurethane/s-foam-130-flex-foam-1392


This is what I used for my super squishy and very flexible Togruta headpieces 🙂


It’s a bit tricky when you don’t have a perfect mold that includes headcast but this time I do sort of! This will make the foam fill in the space perfectly 🙂 I can keep my molds!!!


 


Also this is not what I used but could be ideal for paint:


http://www.barnesnz.co.nz/polyurethane/sc92-single-component-coating-1291





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pinkdiamond: (Default)

Yes, today is dedicated to getting latex in all the molds. Possibly also making latex molds, possibly also getting my last scraps of forex (foamed PVC) and various small costume parts sorted.


But definitely all the latex as I am going to try and get a cast of my Shaak Ti montral as well as Ahsoka 🙂





This entry was originally posted at http://glittersweet.dreamwidth.org/1845126.html. Please comment there using OpenID.
pinkdiamond: (Default)

So while my online demonstration of mold making is not really optimised as it’s slow going but here is a question:


Can anyone guess at why I have been trimming the edges of my molds? I just cut back not only the excess drip marks but also the thin edge left behind.


sm_dsc_0785 sm_dsc_0787


I am curious as to what might be presumed about this “extra step” 🙂


I’ll be posting a separate post once I have finished. But  few clues:


~ biggest clue- this mold is 50lbs (22.9kg)


~ I have seen professional mold-makers in action  so I picked up some habits used on large scale projects.


~ I have been making molds since.. well the late 90s (shhh) so I have a lot of experience in making and maintaining them (lots of experience at doing things in a rush as well as well planned)


~ think of these as objects in and of themselves as well as an intermediary object to make other things 🙂 And how you make the things from this.


~The mold is currently on the ground.

pinkdiamond: (Default)

These are two casts from the same mold. I love my Ashara but I basically made her from an imperfect cast. The mold had separated a bit making for blunt montral and the tops of the lekku was too thin so I cut them off. This leads to the montral sticking away from the face.


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Just to show that Shara was an imperfect cast!


Again, my grumpy cast is doing double duty while my good cast has my horns 🙂


I am having a day of fatigue and turning it into a day of rest, and have been also having some antiinflammatories, which seem to be at least helping a bit so that’s great 🙂

pinkdiamond: (Default)

This works! I love me some smart bb and wp!




#ahsokalives first texture pass. I need to let it all cool so texture can be carved in. Atm it’s all smooshing. Overnight will do it by pinkdiamond, on Flickr




Yes! #maleficent horn texture and #ahsokalives #togruta skin marking success! Now to do this over the entire sculptures!!!! by pinkdiamond, on Flickr




#ahsokalives #ahsokatano texture worked really well! My camera has low res though so had to do a close up. Next stop, #maleficent2014] bypinkdiamond, on Flickr




#ahsokatano sculpt prepping for mold making. Built up as much support out of foam as I could and melting clay while doing so. I may want to clean all of this after! Definitely will be mixing in some other colours. Purple and blue? by pinkdiamond, on Flickr




#ahsokatano from the side. Polystyrene and clay support them clay wall. That brick red? 2.5 kg. There are 2.24 pounds per kg. I think there is about 6kg of grey clay. It fills a crock pot anyway.

by pinkdiamond, on Flickr




#ahsokatano 10kg of ultracal plaster, about. 3l of water, big guess there though, and the top of. The mold is made!

by pinkdiamond, on Flickr




#ahsokatano left to rest. I checked and it is cool enough to leave it be. While it steams it is prone to cracking but this is quite cool. The towels are wet to help this cure. by pinkdiamond, on Flickr


So after a very long period of no progress I suddenly have some? It’s all to do with working on my Maleficent horns. And having already cast my Draenei horns. I just built up my skill set from last time so was able to not only work faster but get texture details I have not managed before! Rounded wrinkles of a certain size have been the bane of my existence! I’m now finding them fun, so all the work that goes into them has a positive result which yeah- makes the repetitive nature soothing rather than stressful


 


Side note, I now have a drywall trade account (well not trade trade, just a normal account). None of the mold supply company stocks it. But it’s still used by tradies for buildings. So… what the heck! Seriously, I haven’t found it in more than a year at any of the SFX supply places. So I grabbed the 22.5kg bag while it’s still in the country!

pinkdiamond: (Default)

I haven’t shared here, I have just been so tired after sculpting (it’s full body, standing, sitting, holding- something this size and floating in the air? yeah you need to use your whole body!)


The latest huge 10 update has also changed all my import settings and my phone is not happy! So I’m still waiting for my images to import before going further 🙂


October 8


sm_dsc_0633 sm_dsc_0656 sm_dsc_0670 sm_dsc_0638


After reshaping the polymorph frame using a heat gun:


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October 9th:


After cutting back the polymorph with a dremel. Note the horns are so long the ends look disproportionately large from the rear view.


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October 10th, more cleaning, more reshaping of the flare.


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October 11 even more subtle shaping- mainly of the extra horn supports


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Detailing the supports more aggressively


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And then to show why I have been taking photos up close despite distortion, it’s more detailed 🙂 My phone does not like even lowish light. But here you can see the horn tips really are not like bunny ears!


sm_dsc_1284 sm_dsc_1285

pinkdiamond: (Default)

malhornsmodel malhornsmodel2


That would be a 3D scan of my horns created from about 40 photos from my plain old DSLR! I have yet to find the “remove everything but the selection” to remove the background of my workroom but.. but.. I may be able to tidy the sculpt and more the table more centrally in my room and then mask off the walls. the few errors in the capture of the horns has a lot to do with not being able to get to the back of the stand.


It did take all night, and I may have to make sure the model doesn’t accidentally wind up published but yeah. I can probably also scan the head cast for fully 3D sculpting! And I will be able to get my hands done too 🙂

pinkdiamond: (Default)

I have three lace front wigs that were not entirely perfect. The first was just a size too small for my head, the other two were slightly too dark for Elsa.


Step One: A new wig cap.


 


sm_dsc_0929 sm_dsc_0930 sm_dsc_0931


This is a strip of high quality powernet (the rest is set aside to redo my Pink Diamonds costume) with the lace top and strips from one of the wigs I cut apart. There are strips of the wig powernet in peach on the sides.


Step Two: Add the lace front to the nape of the neck.


sm_dsc_0954 sm_dsc_0928


I added a strip of stable net and lace to the nape, to help support and reduce stress on the delicate net. This is to disguise the wig fully and the hair can be styled up or down.


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This is the interior view of a strip from a lace front. It is curved and has the front lace clipped already.


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It does blend well.


Step three: stitch lace fronts in


(no pics, as this was a process of frustration and photos that don’t illustrate this well enough!)


Step Four: add wefts


sm_dsc_0975


This is ongoing, and I’d also like to add a couple more lace strips back in to help stabilise the vertical stretch. Start from the bottom to avoid having to flip the wefts out of the way.

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