pinkdiamond: (sipping)

Well this has been a tough decision and I’m still not sure.
(edit for livejournal: welp, not that difficult. In folding my fabrics away I realised how much like the V&A mantua my blue fabric handles, I think I'll be making a blue one :) That gives me a beautiful and "simple" garment while figuring out what to make from the silk.)


First is my 100% dino shot taffeta. It’s a really heavy weight incredibly crisp and is such a beautiful shade I can forgive the content. But I usually have a very distinct line between historic and historic inspired.


Second is my black silk. Very heavy, very heavy. Also able to be used front and back.


sm_dsc_1518 sm_dsc_1520 76c655368e1abea996bf521c24afb1a3


Seriously torn as to which to make from it. Other options for the blue is a francaise or 1870s convertable gown.


The black silk can be anything from 16thC on!


sm_dsc_1517 sm_dsc_1516


Also my beaded silk? Sigh it really does look fab as a Reinette inspired gown. But I also want to go total fantasy with it and yet it drapes so nicely over hoops.


Also coming soon, a fancier Leia wig tutorial. Also her buns are so much bigger than most costumers realise… I need to do a scale diagram.  But her buns sit on her dress collar.


star-wars4-movie-screencaps-com-6683


They may also get bigger the more sass she expresses.


sm_dsc_1705


And also I am having major issues with the way the lace sits at the crown. I have already done major work on this so I may as well get the sectioning clips out to stitch that down!

pinkdiamond: (Default)

It’s not surprise I am obsessed with the style. I have been for more than a decade but never found a fabric I thought would do the style justice. Well now I do have a fabric! And thanks to an online friend sharing images from her own research that connection was sparked and the final push to actually make one inspired!


Many moons ago a very well respected costumier who creates the most amazing 18thC gowns gave me information on a few mantua especially one of my favourite gowns ever, he shared privately but there is now an official source:


kjole


National Museets Samlinger Online

Kjole med slæb, grøn silke

Beskrivelse

Kjole med slæb. Af grøn silke med broderet guldmønster, antagelig 1740erne. Fra Valdemar Slot, Tåsinge.

(I have a pattern for this)


 


76c655368e1abea996bf521c24afb1a3

Victoria and Albert Museum.

Blue silk: Museum no. T.88 to C-1978, early 18thC (note the skirt is essentially a full ruffle from hip height)

3aab1bdaf2398849c8e9bbfa781f3433

Shrewsbury Museums Service:

Mantua.18th century (1710).(SHYMS: T/1973/6/1). Image sy14188


835cfae8425c6857d96840c701a161db fb00e267c9f7d8707842d5d0baecc5d1


National Museum Wales:

Silver embroidered blue damask court mantua (an open fronted gown with an elaborate train), (mix of suggested dates, 1720-1740)

Tredegar Collection


8d573f02739441f6caf0b0adc5b9a4a2

Date: late 17th century

Culture: British

Medium: wool, metal thread

Credit Line: Rogers Fund, 1933

Accession Number: 33.54a, b

(
I have two patterns for this)


c34d72cb1a92d3ee9a7a03db7d5d59ffMetropolitan Museum of Art: Mantua (note the skirt is a series of reverse flounces!)

Date: ca. 1708

Culture: British

Medium: silk, metal

Credit Line: Purchase, Rogers Fund, Isabel Shults Fund and Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1991

Accession Number: 1991.6.1a, b

Canon 20D Digital Capture


Los Angeles County Museum of Art

Woman’s Mantua with Stomacher and Petticoat

Italy, circa 1700

Costumes; principal attire (entire body)

Silk satin with gold- and silver-metallic thread embroidery

a) Dress: Center back length: 56 in. (142.2 cm); b) Petticoat: Center front length: 35 in. (88.9 cm)

Costume Council Fund (M.88.39a-c)



lincoln lincoln2


Collections of the Lincoln Museums:

Usher Gallery, The Lincolnshire mantua

(
There is a pattern to a similar garment in the first PDF, also a skirt layout and layout of the train. All three documents are available to download and are incredibly fascinating!)


 


I have another favourite from the Museum of London but there is no link online.


I will share a thumbnail though and hopefully in time the museum will have this on their site:


mantuamol


Museum of London

Dress 1720-30 (no. 2) front view, with added STOMACHER, 1720-1730 (no.39)

(I have a pattern for this)


This does not appear to in their collections, I will update as soon as I know more. I much prefer to link to the collections rather than take from a book, but I can at least, hopefully, generate interest in this garment!)


 


So I have a fantastic start, a nice range of extant garments to look at trends and to decide on particular style.

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